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Posts Tagged ‘repair’

As homeowners, we often overlook light fixtures in our home when it comes to maintenance. We walk in the room and flip on the light switch, assuming it will always light and be there for us. However, that isn’t always the case, as we all know. Sometimes common electrical problems can cause the problem, or it may just be that a bulb burned out. But how are we to know? Here is a list of common problems and some recommended repairs to keep the lights shining brightly in your home.

Let’s take the ceiling light fixture. You walk in and the bulb will not light. First, check the light bulb first. It may have burned out. Replace the bulb. Check to see if the bulb is tight in the socket; check the socket tab in the center of the socket. You may have to pull up on it in order for it to make contact with the bulb; check the connections at the switch and make sure that they are tight. Be sure that the power is off to the circuit that you are working on; the check the connections at the light and the breaker panel to be sure they are all connected tightly.

Another problem homeowners may encounter is flickering lights. If the bulb flickers on and off it usually means that the switch contacts are getting bad. Usually you’ll be able to hear a sizzling or crackling sound if the switch contacts are bad. In this case, replace the switch. It also could be that the connections are loose. This could be on the switch, at the panel, or in the junction box of the light. There also is the possibility that the connections to the light socket could be loose. Check all of these points and tighten if necessary. If the socket connection is loose, replace the light socket.

Recessed lights, or can lights can also pose electrical problems. Check the size of the bulb in the socket. Make sure the wattage of the bulb doesn’t exceed the recommended wattage rating for the fixture. The maximum wattage will be listed on a tag on the fixture or socket.

The limit switch turns the unit off when the temperature reaches an unsafe level. Over- sized bulbs will radiate an excessive amount of heat and could potentially cause a fire if the limit didn’t shut off the light. It is possible that the limit switch may need to be changed if the correct bulb is in place. You also may need to pull the can light out and make a space above the can light. If the insulation is packed to tightly on top of the light, proper ventilation cannot take place. This will trip the thermal.

You may have a fixture with built-in switches or even pull chains. First, check to see if the bulb is not working. If this is the case, change the bulb. If this is not the case and it is the switch that is not working, check the connections on the switch to make sure they are all tight. Remove the switch from the circuit and test between the wires with an ohmmeter. Toggle the switch and see if it changes values on the ohmmeter. If not, replace the switch. Check the wires to the socket. If they are loose or have a burnt appearance, replace the socket

Mercury filled thermostats served their purpose in the past.  However, times have changed and digital programmable thermostats are the way to go now. With electric and gas prices skyrocketing, a digital thermostat will save you money. It will turn the furnace and air conditioner on and off automatically. The best part is they can be set for different temperatures at different times of the day.

Before you begin, read the manufacturer’s instructions that were sent with the thermostat. These pages will guide you by step-by-step instructions on how to install the device before you begin.  You will also have to assemble the tools that you are going to use.  These include screwdrivers, wire Strippers scratch Awl (for making a hole in the drywall for the new plastic anchors), hammer and a level.

Before doing any electrical work, shut off the power. In this case, the circuit feeding the furnace controls the power to the thermostat. Go to the breaker or fuse panel and turn the breaker off or fuse out.

You have to remove the old thermostat first.  Begin by taking the face plate off of the old thermostat and remove the mounting screws. This will expose the thermostat base. Carefully remove the wires from the thermostat base. Mark down on a piece of paper which color wire goes to what terminal. It should be red to “R” for power, white to “C” for common, blue to “Y” for cool, and green to “G” for fan. Be sure to tie the wires together so that they don’t fall into the wall.

Remove the old base by removing the mounting screws. These may be screwed into plastic anchors. These mounts probably won’t work with the new thermostat.

In order to install the new base, you’ll need to install the new mounting hardware. Usually the manufacturer will send some plastic anchors. With a drill bit slightly smaller than the anchor, drill the holes for the new base. It’s a good idea to level the thermostat for looks.

Using the paper that you wrote the wire colors on, connect the wires accordingly to the new thermostat. Remember, each color goes on only one terminal screw.

Now attach the new thermostat to the base and install the cover. Depending on the model, this may be mounted with screws.

The final step is to turn the power back on and test the thermostat. Check to see if the thermostat is functioning properly.  Be sure to tie the thermostat wire back so it doesn’t fall down inside of the wall.  Take note of the wire colors and the marked terminals they are connected to. This is important for reconnecting.