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You need to learn what circuits are needed for a typical kitchen, whether you are building a new home or just remodeling an older home.  There are some basic circuits that are needed in a kitchen area to supply an effective amount of power to the appliances that will be used. Here is a list of the most commonly used circuits in a kitchen.

The refrigerator requires a dedicated 20-amp, 125-volt circuit. You may only have a smaller refrigerator, while someone else may have a 25 cubic foot side-by-side refrigerator that draws more power. A 12/2 NM wire with a ground is required.

An electric range will need a dedicated 250-volt, 50-amp circuit. That means that you’ll need to pull a 6/3 NM cable or #6 THHN wire in pipe to feed the range.  If it’s a gas range, it will only require a 125-volt receptacle to feed the range, although while in the construction phase, it’s a good idea to add the electric range feed while the walls are open just in the event you ever want to purchase an electric range.

The dishwasher circuit should be a dedicated 125-volt, 15-amp circuit. It is fed with a 14/2 NM wire with a ground. You may elect to feed the dishwasher with a 20-amp circuit using 12/2 NM wire with a ground.

Food disposers do the dirty work, clean up the messes after meals. A dedicated 15-amp circuit is required being fed by 14/2 NM wire with a ground. You may elect to feed the disposer with a 20-amp circuit using 12/2 NM wire with a ground.

The microwave oven needs a dedicated 20-amp, 125-volt circuit to feed it. This will require 12/2 NM wire with a ground.

You will also be using small appliances that sit on your counter tops and they draw additional electrical loads. Atop your countertop, you will need two dedicated 20-amp, 125-volt circuits to run your small appliance loads. You know like toasters, electric griddles, coffee pots, etc… Although there may be more than two outlets on these circuits, two circuits is the minimum. That’s not to say you can’t add more circuits if your needs require them.

Of course, a kitchen wouldn’t be complete without a lighting circuit to brighten the cooking area. A 15-amp, 125-volt dedicated circuit is required to power the ceiling fixtures, can lights, under cabinet lights, and strip lights if you have them. Each set of lights should have their own switch giving you the option of which ones to turn on.

Electrical codes are in place to protect you, the homeowner. These general guidelines apply to new installations and will give you the basics of what electrical inspectors are looking for and what you need to know for your house. Be sure to check with your local electrical inspector because local electrical codes may vary from the list provided. In the case of existing housing, the codes will apply if you are updating a home, and it requires an electrical update. You should also think of up-dating the wiring in your home if it is old and unsafe and it has become a danger to your family. Faulty wiring has caused many fires and even fatalities.

Bathrooms use a lot of power and may need more than one circuit. Mainly, because you may have a curling iron, razor, hairdryer, and the combination light, fan, and heater all running at the same time. The combination fan, light, and heater should have its own 20-amp circuit. Likewise, the outlet should have its own 20-amp circuit. All outlets in bathrooms should be GFCI’s. Light fixtures should be covered with lenses or globes and moisture resistant if placed in a shower or tub area.

A kitchen should have a separate circuit for each appliance with a motor. The microwave, refrigerator, garbage disposal, and dishwasher would be the major appliances included. Generally, the code requires that you install a minimum of two receptacle circuits in the area above the counter top. An electric range, cook top, or oven must be wired to a dedicated 240-volt circuit.

The living room areas and bedrooms require that a wall switch be placed beside the entry door of the room so that you can light the room before entering it. It can control either a ceiling light, a wall light, or an outlet connected to a desk lamp. The ceiling fixture must be controlled by a wall switch and not a pull chain type light. Wall receptacles should be placed no farther than 12 feet apart. Dining rooms usually require a separate 20-amp circuit for one outlet used for a microwave, entertainment center, or window air conditioner.

Special care is needed in stairways to ensure all of the steps are lighted properly. Three-way switches are required at the top and bottom of the stairs. If the stairs turn, you may need to add additional lighting to accommodate the area to be lit.

These areas can be long and need adequate lighting. Be sure to place enough lighting so shadows are not cast when walking. Remember, hallways are often escape routes in the event of inclement weather and emergencies. A hallway over 10 feet long is required to have an outlet for general purpose. Three-way switches are required for the two ends of the hallway. If there are more doors throughout the hallway, say a bedroom or two, then you may want to add addition four-way switches to the circuit outside the door of each room.

Closets must have one globe-covered fixture controlled by a wall switch. Exposed bulb fixtures, like pull-chain fixtures, get hot and come in contact with clothing or other combustible materials stored in closets. Although your existing home may have these fixtures, it is recommended that you change them for safety reasons.

In the laundry room, the washer and dryer should have its own 20-amp receptacle. In the case of an electric dryer, a separate 240-volt circuit should be installed.

Inside the attached garage there should be at least one switch controlling the lighting. It is recommended that three-way switches be installed for convenience between the doors. This lighting should be in addition to any garage door lighting that you may have. Garages need a separate circuit for at least one outlet. This is generally required to be a GFCI outlet. You should check your local code to be sure. When in doubt, make it a GFCI. Any outside outlets connected must be either a GFCI outlet or an outlet connected to a GFCI breaker.

Remember that the electrical codes are in place for your safety. Although you may believe that they are overkill at times, these practices save lives everyday. When it comes to electric safety, don’t become a statistic. Follow the rules of the codes and be sure to have your local electrical inspector give you the green light on your wiring for the safety of your family’s sake.

The National Electrical Code says that no splices are allowed outside of junction boxes. However, it seems that older homes were not built with this in mind. They have lots of wires hanging out that are not in a protective box. A wire splice should always be placed in a protective box and covered with a box cover. Before correcting this problem, as with any other electrical fix, turn the power off to the circuit that you’ll be working on. This is the very first thing that you should do when attempting to work with electricity. This may involve turning off a circuit breaker or unscrewing a fuse. Safety should be your first concern. Use a tester to check the connection and see that it really is off before proceeding. Check for power between the hot wire and the neutral wire to see if there is any power present.

Once you know the power is off, take the wire splices apart so that junction box can be added.

To install a junction box, first pull the two wires back so that the box can be added. Remove two of the box’s knockouts to allow the wires access to the box. Install cable connectors in these holes and tighten the locknut with pliers. The wire will slide into the connector and can be tightened with a screwdriver. Now, install two screws through the small holes in the back of the box to secure the box to the wooden joist.

After the box is secure, use linesman pliers to twist the wires together. To do this, join like colors, black to black, white to white, bare copper to bare copper and twist them together evenly. Add a wire nut to cover the connection. In this case, I’m using red wire nuts to make the connections. You may want to use a green-colored wire nut on the ground (bare copper) connection to symbolize the ground connection.

Once the wires are covered, it is time to install a cover plate. The wires must now be formed into the box so that the cover will go on effortlessly and the mounting screws do not screw into the wire insulation. Tuck the wires into place and place the cover over the two mounting screws. Tighten the screws and you’re ready to turn the circuit back on. After restoring power, go to the device that the splice is feeding and make sure that the circuit is indeed on. If so, you have successfully installed a junction box and made your home safer in doing so.

Mercury filled thermostats served their purpose in the past.  However, times have changed and digital programmable thermostats are the way to go now. With electric and gas prices skyrocketing, a digital thermostat will save you money. It will turn the furnace and air conditioner on and off automatically. The best part is they can be set for different temperatures at different times of the day.

Before you begin, read the manufacturer’s instructions that were sent with the thermostat. These pages will guide you by step-by-step instructions on how to install the device before you begin.  You will also have to assemble the tools that you are going to use.  These include screwdrivers, wire Strippers scratch Awl (for making a hole in the drywall for the new plastic anchors), hammer and a level.

Before doing any electrical work, shut off the power. In this case, the circuit feeding the furnace controls the power to the thermostat. Go to the breaker or fuse panel and turn the breaker off or fuse out.

You have to remove the old thermostat first.  Begin by taking the face plate off of the old thermostat and remove the mounting screws. This will expose the thermostat base. Carefully remove the wires from the thermostat base. Mark down on a piece of paper which color wire goes to what terminal. It should be red to “R” for power, white to “C” for common, blue to “Y” for cool, and green to “G” for fan. Be sure to tie the wires together so that they don’t fall into the wall.

Remove the old base by removing the mounting screws. These may be screwed into plastic anchors. These mounts probably won’t work with the new thermostat.

In order to install the new base, you’ll need to install the new mounting hardware. Usually the manufacturer will send some plastic anchors. With a drill bit slightly smaller than the anchor, drill the holes for the new base. It’s a good idea to level the thermostat for looks.

Using the paper that you wrote the wire colors on, connect the wires accordingly to the new thermostat. Remember, each color goes on only one terminal screw.

Now attach the new thermostat to the base and install the cover. Depending on the model, this may be mounted with screws.

The final step is to turn the power back on and test the thermostat. Check to see if the thermostat is functioning properly.  Be sure to tie the thermostat wire back so it doesn’t fall down inside of the wall.  Take note of the wire colors and the marked terminals they are connected to. This is important for reconnecting.

Any time you remodel there are always some golden opportunities for improvement. You probably, at the beginning, are more interested in the surface quality of the renovation. All you can think about is that sparkling new kitchen, that fresh coat of paint, and replacing that worn out carpet. But beneath each visual enhancement there is a chance for efficiency advancement. As you complete a project it’s never a bad idea to consider energy conservation since it not only helps the environment, but also saves you money. And, no matter the project, it’s typically the small things that work best, tiny upgrades that won’t distract from the remodel but can detract from your electric bill.

Kitchens are the most popular room to renovate since it’s important to keep them up to date. And though surface features such as cabinets, counters, and floors are often the focus, as you remodel it may be time to think about replacing your appliances. ENERGY STAR products can instantly cut your electric energy bill by 40 percent since they use less power and water. They also come in many trendy styles and sizes to match your needs. Additionally, if you replace your gas or electric stove with an induction range that uses a small amount of concentrated heat, you’ll use less energy while you cook.

As you replace sinks, showerheads, and faucets, consider low-flow products. The pressure is just as strong as conventional items while still cutting down on water usage. Instead of draining three gallons per a flush, or pouring about four gallons per a minute from a faucet, low-flow fixtures utilize half the amount: enough to be comfortable without the waste. And since the mechanisms inside the fixtures do all the work, the exterior is still able to shine through since they’re available in any style, trend, or finish.

For the rest of the house (family rooms, offices, bedrooms), your focus on renovations most likely will abate. Unless you’re breaking through walls or adding additions, the remainder of the home will probably focus more on interior design issues: paint, furniture, and especially lighting. But as you improve lighting in a particular area, think about how to best utilize the source. Instead of using one overhead bulb, task lighting may be a more efficient enhancement. Remember, it looks chic and modern, but it also concentrates the glow. Plus, compact fluorescent light bulbs (CFLs) last a lot longer and use less energy than traditional incandescent products.

When you remodel the exterior, you’re probably thinking about landscaping. But even when picking out plants, take a tip from the “xeroscaping” handbook. The “xeroscaping” philosophy recommends you plant vegetation that matches your environment. So make sure you select flowers and shrubs that can easily survive in your neck of the woods and won’t require constant watering or tending. Speaking of water, traditional sprinklers are often unable to control their water distribution, and tend to evaporate the moisture before it has a chance to hit the ground. Instead, buy a drip irrigation system that can concentrate smaller amounts of water onto your plant life. Or maybe invest in an underground sprinkler system that can run on a controlled timer. Plus, as you set up your exterior lighting, consider investing in some solar lights: they’re not as bright as electric bulbs, but they last all night and cost nothing to use or install.

Since most people want their houses to appear airy, windows are the best way to accomplish an open feel. Day lighting, or adding more windows in specific locations, is a great way to capture natural sun, thereby saving on electric and heating bills. However, as you install or replace your glass, make sure your windows are double-paned and glazed. Energy efficient low-e (low emissive) and spectrally-selective coatings block out UV rays while still allowing light and heat to pass through. Also, remember the trimmings: storm windows, solar shades, and window treatments can help to protect your home from solar heat gain.

The best way to conserve energy is to add insulation to your house. If you’re converting an attic or basement, lay down an extra layer of fiberglass or cellulose: It’ll increase your R-value without breaking your budget. Caulk windows and doors as you change them or even if you do not. Caulk and seal the old ones. But if you’re replacing an old HVAC system with a new model, you may want to think about a few more energy-efficient options, such as an ENERGY STAR boiler or furnace which use an electric igniter instead of a gas-powered pilot light. Or, invest in a programmable thermostat to help you control and stabilize the indoor temperature better.

Always, if in doubt as to how to do something in the best and most safest way, hire a professional electrician and/or other kind of contractor.

If you’re thinking of buying an electric shower, the first thing to consider are your expectations. Electric showers shouldn’t be confused with power showers. Many people associate a forceful invigorating water jet with power, and are then disappointed by the reality of the average electric shower. In the past, electric showers have been the ugly ducklings of the shower world compared to sleek shiny mixer showers. Recently some manufacturers have moved away from white or silver wall-mounted plastic boxes, and developed glass or slate-effect boxes with chrome controls.

An electric shower is essentially a water heater. It relies on heating mains-pressure cold water very fast as it flows towards the shower head. There is no pump involved, so the amount of water you get through will depend on your mains water pressure. Electric showers are economical as you heat only the water you need, and they’re the only type of shower that’s independent of the hot water system, so if your boiler fails you can still have a hot shower.

The other type of electric shower is a pumped ’power shower’. These connect to both your hot and cold water supplies and are essentially mixer showers, but use an electrical pump to increase the pressure coming out of the shower head, and therefore use much less electricity than an electrically heated shower. An electric shower requires plumbing only to a mains cold water supply, and connection to the electrical supply. The high power electrical element will require connection to a separate electrical supply circuit, which requires an electrician’s services..

Article Source: http://www.articledashboard.com/Article/Difference-between-Electric-Shower-and-power-shower/980426

Whenever you are doing any wiring, even as much as replacing an outlet, make certain that all materials are approved by Underwriter’s Laboratories, Inc., an independent, nonprofit testing firm. The letters “UL” stamped within a circle are indicative of the article being approved by this independent underwriting laboratory.

When you undertake an electrical project in your home, be sure to do your work according to code. That might really sound simple, but a problem arises with overlapping codes. These include the National Electric Code (NEC), county codes, and local (city) codes.

Any manufacturer can send a product to Underwriter’s, which then runs a series a tests to make sure that the item is safe. If so, it then gets ’listed’ by the UL. A UL listing means that a product is known to be safe only for its intended purpose and use. A UL-listed lamp cord, for example, is safe on lamps. The lamp cord may not be used as permanent wiring in a house. Inspectors from the firm periodically visit the manufacturer’s plant to see that the product continues to meet UL standards. They may also buy the product at a later date and retest it to see that the safety standards have not slipped and are still up to, what is considered, ordinary and customary.

Electric equipment without UL listing may be somewhat cheaper, but you may also assume that it is of lower quality. With electrical equipment, this is something definitely to avoid. The slight additional cost of buying UL-listed merchandise is minuscule compared to what it will cost you later to replace cheap equipment when it breaks down and it most likely will.

So, besides the Underwriter’s Laboratories, Inc. (UL) approval of any and all items that you use to do your project, you must be certain that you use these items according to the proper codes that have been set forth through your county, city, state, area and the like.

Having these two necessary parts in mind, you must also be aware of the local and county codes for your immediate area in which the work will be done. This may not be the same codes that you employ in the area you live. So be sure to check out all codes that come into play with your project. As an example, the NEC approves of aluminum wiring, but some local codes now forbid it. To find out how codes apply to what you are doing in the area in which you are doing it, visit your local or county building inspector’s office.

 Since both the local and county codes are based on the NEC, you should know it. There is a guide that you can buy that comes in paperback that many professional electricians consider to be their ’bible’. It is called, “Wiring Simplified” by H.P. Richter. It is updated annually and includes practical interpretations of the Code, plus a great deal of information on wiring. You can find it in most large bookstores.

In the end, you must abide by the code that has authority and control over your residence or the place where you are performing the project. If you live or your project is being produced in the city, you must follow local codes. If you are in an unincorporated area, follow the county codes. Basically, you need a permit from your local building inspector’s office whenever you are to add on to your existing wiring. One is not needed if you were to only replace switches or receptacles but you do want one if you are to extend a circuit, which involves adding more wire to the existing wire when you replace your switch or receptacle.