While direct current (DC) electricity flows in one direction through a wire, AC electricity alternates its direction in a back-and-forth motion. The direction alternates between 50 and 60 times per second, depending on the electrical system of the country.  This change happens in a cycle.  Each cycle is also called a Hertz (Hz).

AC electricity is created by an AC electric generator, which determines the frequency. What is special about AC electricity is that the voltage can be readily changed, thus making it more suitable for long-distance transmission than DC electricity. But also, AC can employ capacitors and inductors in electronic circuitry, allowing for a wide range of applications.

We say AC electricity instead of simply saying AC, since that is also the abbreviation for air conditioning. You need to be specific to avoid confusioning issues and to avoid any misunderstandings while discussing a topic like this.

With an AC generator, a slightly different configuration alternates the push and pull of each generator terminal. Thus the electricity in the wire moves in one direction for a short while and then reverses its direction when the generator armature is in a different position.

The charge at the ends of the wire alternates between negative (−) and positive (+). If the charge is negative (−), that pushes the negatively charged electrons away from that terminal. If the charge is positive (+), the electrons are attracted in that direction.

AC electricity alternates back-and-forth in direction 50 or 60 times per second, according to the electrical system in the country. This is called the frequency and is designated as either 50 Hertz (50Hz) or 60 Hertz (60Hz).

The regular back-and-forth motion of the electrons in a wire when powered by AC electricity is periodic motion, similar to that of a pendulum. Because of this periodic motion of the electrons, the voltage and current follow a sine waveform, alternating between positive (+) and negative (−), as measured with a voltmeter or multimeter.

There are distinct advantages of AC over DC electricity. The ability to readily transform voltages is the main reason we use AC instead of DC in our homes.  The major advantage that AC electricity has over DC electricity is that AC voltages can be readily transformed to higher or lower voltage levels, while it is difficult to do that with DC voltages.  Since high voltages are more effecient for sending electricity great distances, AC electricity has an advantage over DC. This is because the high voltages from the power station can be easily reduced to a safer voltage for use in the house. Changing voltages is done by the use of a transformer. This device uses properties of AC electromagnets to change the voltages.

AC electricity also allows for the use of a capacitor and inductor within an electrical or electronic circuit. These devices can affect the way the alternating current passes through a circuit. They are only effective with AC electricity. A combination of a capacitor, inductor and resistor is used as a tuner in radios and televisions.

 
Energy Saving Tips to Use Throughout the Year to help Reduce Electricity costs :

1.   Be sure to turn off lights when you leave a room.
2.   Turn off machines when you leave a room (examples include TV’s, computers, radios, stereos, video games, VCR’s, and DVD players).
3.   When you go away on a trip, be sure to unplug these same machines because they have stand-by functions that consume  electricity even when they are turned off.
4.   Fill your dishwasher efficiently and limit the number of times you run it.
5.   Don’t put furniture and other things in front of heating and air conditioning vents.
6.   Keep doors and windows closed when heat or air conditioning is on.
7.   Put in a programmable thermostat which will keep your house at the right temperature day and night.  Programmable thermostats can reduce cooling and heating bills up to 10% because they lower the heat or raise the air conditioning when you are not at home.
8.   Check how much electricity your water heater uses. If it uses more than other models of water heaters, replace it with a more efficient one.
9.   Put insulation around the pipes going in and out of your water heater.  If you have an older water heater, put an insulated blanket around it.
10.   If you will be out of town for more than a couple days, turn off your water heater.
11.   About once a year, drain one gallon of water from the faucet at the bottom of your water heater.  This gets rid of the sediment in the water which reduces the energy efficiency of your water heater.
12.   Change your furnace filter at least once a year or even more.  Filters get clogged up with dust and dirt that circulate in a house. This means that air has a more difficult time passing through the filter, and then your furnace has to work a lot harder in order to heat the house.
13.   Take a look at the insulation in your attic.  Heat rises, which means that warm air rises into your attic. If you don’t have good enough insulation, heat will be wasted.  Insulation should be 6 inches to 1 foot thick.
14.   Close doors and vents in rooms you are not using.
15.   Hold a ribbon or feather up to windows and doors to see if there are any drafts.  If there are, put in weather stripping or caulking to keep the outside air out and to keep the air conditioning or heating in.
16.   Turn off the water when you are brushing your teeth and take shorter showers.  This will not only save water, but it will also save the electricity that it takes to pump and heat the water. 
17.   Make use of daylight hours and do not turn on lights and lamps.
18.   Use one large light bulb instead of a few small ones.  One 100-watt light bulb uses less energy and gives off more light than two 60-watt bulbs.
19.   Use fluorescent light bulbs because they use 75% less energy and last longer than incandescent light bulbs.
20.   Use light bulbs that are low in wattage in areas of your house where you don’t need bright light.
21.   Make sure that outdoor lighting is turned off during the day.  Use motion-detectors lights or timer switches.
22.   Decide what you want from the refrigerator or freezer before you open them so you don’t waste electricity by standing there looking inside and keeping the door open.
23.   Vacuum the coils of your refrigerator every few months in order to lower your energy bill and to keep the condenser working better.
24.   Before putting hot foods into the refrigerator, cool them to room temperature (unless the recipe tells you not to do this).
25.   Cook several food dishes in the oven at the same time.
26.   Keep the oven door closed until the food is done cooking.
27.   Defrost food before you bake or microwave it.  This uses 1/3 less energy than if you baked food that was still frozen.
28.   Wash full loads of clothing instead of smaller ones.  Use the coolest water possible for washing and rinsing the clothes.
29.   Clean the lint filter of your dryer after every load.
30.   Dry full loads of clothes.
31.   Dry one load right after another because this uses less energy since the dryer is already hot.
32.   Be sure to stop the dryer as soon as the clothes are dry.

Summer Tips:

Keep your blinds, drapes or shades closed during the day.

Use ceiling fans or windows fans instead of air conditioning.  Ceiling and window fans use much less electricity.

Only use air conditioning when it is really hot outside.

Turn off your air conditioning if you will be gone from home for a long time.

Clean or replace your air conditioning filters every month (in both central and window air conditioners).

Turn the thermostat up a few degrees when you have the air conditioning on.  74 degrees is very comfortable and you are saving up to 5% on your electric bills for each degree of temperature change.

Plant trees in your yard because they help shade your house in the summer and keep your house cooler.

If you can, shade your air conditioning unit.  If your unit is in the bright sun, it will use up to 5% more energy than if it was in the shade

Winter Tips:

1.   Keep your thermostat at or below 68 degrees. If you are cold, put on a sweater or sweatshirt.  Remember, you are saving up to 5% on your electric bill for every degree of temperature change.
2.   On sunny winter days, open your curtains, drapes, and blinds  to let the sunshine in to warm up your house.
3.   Put clear plastic over some of your windows.  This will work like insulation and prevent cold air from getting in your house.
4.   Put caulking around window frames and doors from the inside.
5.   Make sure windows and doors close well so they do not let any cold air in.
6.   Repair any broken or cracked window glass.
7.   Plant trees in your yard because trees break the cold winter wind before it reaches your house.
8.   If you have a fireplace, make sure you have a tight-fitting damper and keep it closed when you are not using the fireplace.

If you attempt to work inside of a service panel, and this is not recommended for those that are not skilled in electrical work, it is necessary to look for any current leakage, for any electricity that is outside of its proper place.  This should only be attempted after all power to the panel has been turned off.  Once you are sure that there is no electricity coming in to the service panel, remove the panel cover.  Touch one of the voltage tester probes to the ground/neutral busbar (bus) (a busbar in an electrical power distribution refers to thick strips of wire that conduct electricity in, for one, a service panel.)  Touch the other probe to an open space first on one, then on the other hot bus.  If the tester lights up, call an electrician.

Once you have checked that the power is off, insert the probes into the slots of the outlet.  If the bulb does not light up, the power is off.  Test both openings of a duplex receptacle (double container.)  After this, remove the cover plate, and touch probes to bare ends of each pair of black and white wires attached to the receptacle.  Tester should not light.

It is necessary to check for grounding.  Grounding is the process of removing the extra electrical charge on an object by transferring electrons between it and some other item of substantial size. When a charged object is grounded, the excess charge is balanced by the transfer of electrons between the charged thing and a ground. A ground simply said is an object which serves as an outwardly substantial reservoir of electrons.  The ground is capable of transferring electrons to, or receiving electrons from, a charged object in order to neutralize that object.

To check for grounding in a receptacle with power on, put one of the probes in the short (hot) slot.  Then touch the second probe to the bare metal cover plate, or to the plate screw, or insert the second probe in the grounding slot, if there is one.  If tester shines weakly or not at all, the receptacle is not well grounded.  Then, with the power off, remove the cover plate and look for a loose grounding connection.

To test for the electric power at a switch, first turn off the electric power to the circuit and then remove the cover plate over the receptacle.  Place one of the probes on the metal box, or if the box is nonmetallic, place one of the probes on the bare grounding wire.  Touch each switch terminal with the second probe.  If the tester lights up, then there is power coming in to the receptacle.  If this is the case, go back to the electrical service panel and turn off the right circuit.

If you need to find the right incoming hot (electrified) wire in an electrical box, cut power to the circuit.  Remove switch, receptacle, or fixture from the electric box.  You need to bend the loose electric wires away from each other and the electric box because you need to keep these wires from touching each other and from touching the box.  After this has been accomplished, restore the electric power.  Cautiously, touch one of the probes to the metal box (or to the grounding wire if the electric box is made from plastic.)  Then touch the second probe to each black wire.  The voltage tester should light at the hot (electrified) wire.

You need to learn what circuits are needed for a typical kitchen, whether you are building a new home or just remodeling an older home.  There are some basic circuits that are needed in a kitchen area to supply an effective amount of power to the appliances that will be used. Here is a list of the most commonly used circuits in a kitchen.

The refrigerator requires a dedicated 20-amp, 125-volt circuit. You may only have a smaller refrigerator, while someone else may have a 25 cubic foot side-by-side refrigerator that draws more power. A 12/2 NM wire with a ground is required.

An electric range will need a dedicated 250-volt, 50-amp circuit. That means that you’ll need to pull a 6/3 NM cable or #6 THHN wire in pipe to feed the range.  If it’s a gas range, it will only require a 125-volt receptacle to feed the range, although while in the construction phase, it’s a good idea to add the electric range feed while the walls are open just in the event you ever want to purchase an electric range.

The dishwasher circuit should be a dedicated 125-volt, 15-amp circuit. It is fed with a 14/2 NM wire with a ground. You may elect to feed the dishwasher with a 20-amp circuit using 12/2 NM wire with a ground.

Food disposers do the dirty work, clean up the messes after meals. A dedicated 15-amp circuit is required being fed by 14/2 NM wire with a ground. You may elect to feed the disposer with a 20-amp circuit using 12/2 NM wire with a ground.

The microwave oven needs a dedicated 20-amp, 125-volt circuit to feed it. This will require 12/2 NM wire with a ground.

You will also be using small appliances that sit on your counter tops and they draw additional electrical loads. Atop your countertop, you will need two dedicated 20-amp, 125-volt circuits to run your small appliance loads. You know like toasters, electric griddles, coffee pots, etc… Although there may be more than two outlets on these circuits, two circuits is the minimum. That’s not to say you can’t add more circuits if your needs require them.

Of course, a kitchen wouldn’t be complete without a lighting circuit to brighten the cooking area. A 15-amp, 125-volt dedicated circuit is required to power the ceiling fixtures, can lights, under cabinet lights, and strip lights if you have them. Each set of lights should have their own switch giving you the option of which ones to turn on.

Let’s take the ceiling light fixture. You walk in and the bulb will not light. First, check the light bulb first. It may have burned out. Replace the bulb. Check to see if the bulb is tight in the socket; check the socket tab in the center of the socket. You may have to pull up on it in order for it to make contact with the bulb; check the connections at the switch and make sure that they are tight. Be sure that the power is off to the circuit that you are working on; the check the connections at the light and the breaker panel to be sure they are all connected tightly.

Another problem homeowners may encounter is flickering lights. If the bulb flickers on and off it usually means that the switch contacts are getting bad. Usually you’ll be able to hear a sizzling or crackling sound if the switch contacts are bad. In this case, replace the switch. It also could be that the connections are loose. This could be on the switch, at the panel, or in the junction box of the light. There also is the possibility that the connections to the light socket could be loose. Check all of these points and tighten if necessary. If the socket connection is loose, replace the light socket.

Recessed lights, or can lights can also pose electrical problems. Check the size of the bulb in the socket. Make sure the wattage of the bulb doesn’t exceed the recommended wattage rating for the fixture. The maximum wattage will be listed on a tag on the fixture or socket.

The limit switch turns the unit off when the temperature reaches an unsafe level. Over- sized bulbs will radiate an excessive amount of heat and could potentially cause a fire if the limit didn’t shut off the light. It is possible that the limit switch may need to be changed if the correct bulb is in place. You also may need to pull the can light out and make a space above the can light. If the insulation is packed to tightly on top of the light, proper ventilation cannot take place. This will trip the thermal.

You may have a fixture with built-in switches or even pull chains. First, check to see if the bulb is not working. If this is the case, change the bulb. If this is not the case and it is the switch that is not working, check the connections on the switch to make sure they are all tight. Remove the switch from the circuit and test between the wires with an ohmmeter. Toggle the switch and see if it changes values on the ohmmeter. If not, replace the switch. Check the wires to the socket. If they are loose or have a burnt appearance, replace the socket

Bathrooms use a lot of power and may need more than one circuit. Mainly, because you may have a curling iron, razor, hairdryer, and the combination light, fan, and heater all running at the same time. The combination fan, light, and heater should have its own 20-amp circuit. Likewise, the outlet should have its own 20-amp circuit. All outlets in bathrooms should be GFCI’s. Light fixtures should be covered with lenses or globes and moisture resistant if placed in a shower or tub area.

A kitchen should have a separate circuit for each appliance with a motor. The microwave, refrigerator, garbage disposal, and dishwasher would be the major appliances included. Generally, the code requires that you install a minimum of two receptacle circuits in the area above the counter top. An electric range, cook top, or oven must be wired to a dedicated 240-volt circuit.

The living room areas and bedrooms require that a wall switch be placed beside the entry door of the room so that you can light the room before entering it. It can control either a ceiling light, a wall light, or an outlet connected to a desk lamp. The ceiling fixture must be controlled by a wall switch and not a pull chain type light. Wall receptacles should be placed no farther than 12 feet apart. Dining rooms usually require a separate 20-amp circuit for one outlet used for a microwave, entertainment center, or window air conditioner.

Special care is needed in stairways to ensure all of the steps are lighted properly. Three-way switches are required at the top and bottom of the stairs. If the stairs turn, you may need to add additional lighting to accommodate the area to be lit.

These areas can be long and need adequate lighting. Be sure to place enough lighting so shadows are not cast when walking. Remember, hallways are often escape routes in the event of inclement weather and emergencies. A hallway over 10 feet long is required to have an outlet for general purpose. Three-way switches are required for the two ends of the hallway. If there are more doors throughout the hallway, say a bedroom or two, then you may want to add addition four-way switches to the circuit outside the door of each room.

Closets must have one globe-covered fixture controlled by a wall switch. Exposed bulb fixtures, like pull-chain fixtures, get hot and come in contact with clothing or other combustible materials stored in closets. Although your existing home may have these fixtures, it is recommended that you change them for safety reasons.

In the laundry room, the washer and dryer should have its own 20-amp receptacle. In the case of an electric dryer, a separate 240-volt circuit should be installed.

Inside the attached garage there should be at least one switch controlling the lighting. It is recommended that three-way switches be installed for convenience between the doors. This lighting should be in addition to any garage door lighting that you may have. Garages need a separate circuit for at least one outlet. This is generally required to be a GFCI outlet. You should check your local code to be sure. When in doubt, make it a GFCI. Any outside outlets connected must be either a GFCI outlet or an outlet connected to a GFCI breaker.

Remember that the electrical codes are in place for your safety. Although you may believe that they are overkill at times, these practices save lives everyday. When it comes to electric safety, don’t become a statistic. Follow the rules of the codes and be sure to have your local electrical inspector give you the green light on your wiring for the safety of your family’s sake.

Once you know the power is off, take the wire splices apart so that junction box can be added.

To install a junction box, first pull the two wires back so that the box can be added. Remove two of the box’s knockouts to allow the wires access to the box. Install cable connectors in these holes and tighten the locknut with pliers. The wire will slide into the connector and can be tightened with a screwdriver. Now, install two screws through the small holes in the back of the box to secure the box to the wooden joist.

After the box is secure, use linesman pliers to twist the wires together. To do this, join like colors, black to black, white to white, bare copper to bare copper and twist them together evenly. Add a wire nut to cover the connection. In this case, I’m using red wire nuts to make the connections. You may want to use a green-colored wire nut on the ground (bare copper) connection to symbolize the ground connection.

Once the wires are covered, it is time to install a cover plate. The wires must now be formed into the box so that the cover will go on effortlessly and the mounting screws do not screw into the wire insulation. Tuck the wires into place and place the cover over the two mounting screws. Tighten the screws and you’re ready to turn the circuit back on. After restoring power, go to the device that the splice is feeding and make sure that the circuit is indeed on. If so, you have successfully installed a junction box and made your home safer in doing so.

Before you begin, read the manufacturer’s instructions that were sent with the thermostat. These pages will guide you by step-by-step instructions on how to install the device before you begin.  You will also have to assemble the tools that you are going to use.  These include screwdrivers, wire Strippers scratch Awl (for making a hole in the drywall for the new plastic anchors), hammer and a level.

Before doing any electrical work, shut off the power. In this case, the circuit feeding the furnace controls the power to the thermostat. Go to the breaker or fuse panel and turn the breaker off or fuse out.

You have to remove the old thermostat first.  Begin by taking the face plate off of the old thermostat and remove the mounting screws. This will expose the thermostat base. Carefully remove the wires from the thermostat base. Mark down on a piece of paper which color wire goes to what terminal. It should be red to “R” for power, white to “C” for common, blue to “Y” for cool, and green to “G” for fan. Be sure to tie the wires together so that they don’t fall into the wall.

Remove the old base by removing the mounting screws. These may be screwed into plastic anchors. These mounts probably won’t work with the new thermostat.

In order to install the new base, you’ll need to install the new mounting hardware. Usually the manufacturer will send some plastic anchors. With a drill bit slightly smaller than the anchor, drill the holes for the new base. It’s a good idea to level the thermostat for looks.

Using the paper that you wrote the wire colors on, connect the wires accordingly to the new thermostat. Remember, each color goes on only one terminal screw.

Now attach the new thermostat to the base and install the cover. Depending on the model, this may be mounted with screws.

The final step is to turn the power back on and test the thermostat. Check to see if the thermostat is functioning properly.  Be sure to tie the thermostat wire back so it doesn’t fall down inside of the wall.  Take note of the wire colors and the marked terminals they are connected to. This is important for reconnecting.

Once you have made your home more energy efficient and reduced your energy consumption as much as possible, you need to decide if other modes of energy delivery are in the offing for you.If solar power will fulfill all your needs, so be it. Or a mixture of solar and wind power are for you, then go for it.

The truth is that people who assume that home solar panel costs are too expensive are actually wrong.I know if you go out and get your local solar panel dealer to install them then you are looking at prices ranging from $10,000 to $25,000 and the time it takes to get your money back is a very long time.Around the world the cost of energy is increasing regularly. Oil and gas are much higher than they use to be. This has resulted in a dramatic increase in the price of electricity.Due to this, people are looking for a lower electric bill and want to drive down their energy costs by producing their own energy.

I looked at my monthly expenses to see what was gobbling up most of my money.One look at my utilities bill and I knew I needed to do something.On TV and in the press I had read and heard about people setting up solar panels on their roof or in the garden.I took my time, did my homework and was amazed at what I found.

You will be amazed at how easy it is to make the switch to solar energy, and you are probably going to wonder why you didn’t do this before. There are lots of great reasons to install solar panels on your house. Top of the list is huge savings you will find on your utility bills. Another benefit is the freedom of not being tied to the national grid when you have enough solar panels (besides the possibility that if you have more than you need, you can re-sell your excess power to your utility company.)With solar panels fitted, power cuts and unexpectedly increased electric bills become a thing of the past.

You can build your own solar panels at nowhere near the cost of what your local dealer will charge. Like everything in life, the first time it will take some time and effort but with clear plans, written in a non-technical way, you will manage very well so that the second solar panel will go a lot quicker. When you are installing solar panels at home you must look into the government incentive programs. The government is very much an advocate for solar panels and in most cases will give you money to help you install them.

So all in all you can see that renewable energy by way of solar panels is the way forward to a lower electric bill.