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It’s important to save electricity because electric companies often produce electricity by burning fossil fuels such as coal, oil, and natural gas. The burning of fossil fuels contributes to global warming and pollutes the air.

 
Energy Saving Tips to Use Throughout the Year to help Reduce Electricity costs :

1.   Be sure to turn off lights when you leave a room.
2.   Turn off machines when you leave a room (examples include TV’s, computers, radios, stereos, video games, VCR’s, and DVD players).
3.   When you go away on a trip, be sure to unplug these same machines because they have stand-by functions that consume  electricity even when they are turned off.
4.   Fill your dishwasher efficiently and limit the number of times you run it.
5.   Don’t put furniture and other things in front of heating and air conditioning vents.
6.   Keep doors and windows closed when heat or air conditioning is on.
7.   Put in a programmable thermostat which will keep your house at the right temperature day and night.  Programmable thermostats can reduce cooling and heating bills up to 10% because they lower the heat or raise the air conditioning when you are not at home.
8.   Check how much electricity your water heater uses. If it uses more than other models of water heaters, replace it with a more efficient one.
9.   Put insulation around the pipes going in and out of your water heater.  If you have an older water heater, put an insulated blanket around it.
10.   If you will be out of town for more than a couple days, turn off your water heater.
11.   About once a year, drain one gallon of water from the faucet at the bottom of your water heater.  This gets rid of the sediment in the water which reduces the energy efficiency of your water heater.
12.   Change your furnace filter at least once a year or even more.  Filters get clogged up with dust and dirt that circulate in a house. This means that air has a more difficult time passing through the filter, and then your furnace has to work a lot harder in order to heat the house.
13.   Take a look at the insulation in your attic.  Heat rises, which means that warm air rises into your attic. If you don’t have good enough insulation, heat will be wasted.  Insulation should be 6 inches to 1 foot thick.
14.   Close doors and vents in rooms you are not using.
15.   Hold a ribbon or feather up to windows and doors to see if there are any drafts.  If there are, put in weather stripping or caulking to keep the outside air out and to keep the air conditioning or heating in.
16.   Turn off the water when you are brushing your teeth and take shorter showers.  This will not only save water, but it will also save the electricity that it takes to pump and heat the water. 
17.   Make use of daylight hours and do not turn on lights and lamps.
18.   Use one large light bulb instead of a few small ones.  One 100-watt light bulb uses less energy and gives off more light than two 60-watt bulbs.
19.   Use fluorescent light bulbs because they use 75% less energy and last longer than incandescent light bulbs.
20.   Use light bulbs that are low in wattage in areas of your house where you don’t need bright light.
21.   Make sure that outdoor lighting is turned off during the day.  Use motion-detectors lights or timer switches.
22.   Decide what you want from the refrigerator or freezer before you open them so you don’t waste electricity by standing there looking inside and keeping the door open.
23.   Vacuum the coils of your refrigerator every few months in order to lower your energy bill and to keep the condenser working better.
24.   Before putting hot foods into the refrigerator, cool them to room temperature (unless the recipe tells you not to do this).
25.   Cook several food dishes in the oven at the same time.
26.   Keep the oven door closed until the food is done cooking.
27.   Defrost food before you bake or microwave it.  This uses 1/3 less energy than if you baked food that was still frozen.
28.   Wash full loads of clothing instead of smaller ones.  Use the coolest water possible for washing and rinsing the clothes.
29.   Clean the lint filter of your dryer after every load.
30.   Dry full loads of clothes.
31.   Dry one load right after another because this uses less energy since the dryer is already hot.
32.   Be sure to stop the dryer as soon as the clothes are dry.

Summer Tips:

Keep your blinds, drapes or shades closed during the day.

Use ceiling fans or windows fans instead of air conditioning.  Ceiling and window fans use much less electricity.

Only use air conditioning when it is really hot outside.

Turn off your air conditioning if you will be gone from home for a long time.

Clean or replace your air conditioning filters every month (in both central and window air conditioners).

Turn the thermostat up a few degrees when you have the air conditioning on.  74 degrees is very comfortable and you are saving up to 5% on your electric bills for each degree of temperature change.

Plant trees in your yard because they help shade your house in the summer and keep your house cooler.

If you can, shade your air conditioning unit.  If your unit is in the bright sun, it will use up to 5% more energy than if it was in the shade

Winter Tips:

1.   Keep your thermostat at or below 68 degrees. If you are cold, put on a sweater or sweatshirt.  Remember, you are saving up to 5% on your electric bill for every degree of temperature change.
2.   On sunny winter days, open your curtains, drapes, and blinds  to let the sunshine in to warm up your house.
3.   Put clear plastic over some of your windows.  This will work like insulation and prevent cold air from getting in your house.
4.   Put caulking around window frames and doors from the inside.
5.   Make sure windows and doors close well so they do not let any cold air in.
6.   Repair any broken or cracked window glass.
7.   Plant trees in your yard because trees break the cold winter wind before it reaches your house.
8.   If you have a fireplace, make sure you have a tight-fitting damper and keep it closed when you are not using the fireplace.

A voltage tester is equipped with two probes and a light bulb but has no power source.  The 120/240 voltage, or neon-light that shows that there is voltage, lights up when voltage is present.  This device is used to find the incoming hot wire when more than one black wire is in a box and to check for proper grounding.

If you attempt to work inside of a service panel, and this is not recommended for those that are not skilled in electrical work, it is necessary to look for any current leakage, for any electricity that is outside of its proper place.  This should only be attempted after all power to the panel has been turned off.  Once you are sure that there is no electricity coming in to the service panel, remove the panel cover.  Touch one of the voltage tester probes to the ground/neutral busbar (bus) (a busbar in an electrical power distribution refers to thick strips of wire that conduct electricity in, for one, a service panel.)  Touch the other probe to an open space first on one, then on the other hot bus.  If the tester lights up, call an electrician.

Once you have checked that the power is off, insert the probes into the slots of the outlet.  If the bulb does not light up, the power is off.  Test both openings of a duplex receptacle (double container.)  After this, remove the cover plate, and touch probes to bare ends of each pair of black and white wires attached to the receptacle.  Tester should not light.

It is necessary to check for grounding.  Grounding is the process of removing the extra electrical charge on an object by transferring electrons between it and some other item of substantial size. When a charged object is grounded, the excess charge is balanced by the transfer of electrons between the charged thing and a ground. A ground simply said is an object which serves as an outwardly substantial reservoir of electrons.  The ground is capable of transferring electrons to, or receiving electrons from, a charged object in order to neutralize that object.

To check for grounding in a receptacle with power on, put one of the probes in the short (hot) slot.  Then touch the second probe to the bare metal cover plate, or to the plate screw, or insert the second probe in the grounding slot, if there is one.  If tester shines weakly or not at all, the receptacle is not well grounded.  Then, with the power off, remove the cover plate and look for a loose grounding connection.

To test for the electric power at a switch, first turn off the electric power to the circuit and then remove the cover plate over the receptacle.  Place one of the probes on the metal box, or if the box is nonmetallic, place one of the probes on the bare grounding wire.  Touch each switch terminal with the second probe.  If the tester lights up, then there is power coming in to the receptacle.  If this is the case, go back to the electrical service panel and turn off the right circuit.

If you need to find the right incoming hot (electrified) wire in an electrical box, cut power to the circuit.  Remove switch, receptacle, or fixture from the electric box.  You need to bend the loose electric wires away from each other and the electric box because you need to keep these wires from touching each other and from touching the box.  After this has been accomplished, restore the electric power.  Cautiously, touch one of the probes to the metal box (or to the grounding wire if the electric box is made from plastic.)  Then touch the second probe to each black wire.  The voltage tester should light at the hot (electrified) wire.

You need to learn what circuits are needed for a typical kitchen, whether you are building a new home or just remodeling an older home.  There are some basic circuits that are needed in a kitchen area to supply an effective amount of power to the appliances that will be used. Here is a list of the most commonly used circuits in a kitchen.

The refrigerator requires a dedicated 20-amp, 125-volt circuit. You may only have a smaller refrigerator, while someone else may have a 25 cubic foot side-by-side refrigerator that draws more power. A 12/2 NM wire with a ground is required.

An electric range will need a dedicated 250-volt, 50-amp circuit. That means that you’ll need to pull a 6/3 NM cable or #6 THHN wire in pipe to feed the range.  If it’s a gas range, it will only require a 125-volt receptacle to feed the range, although while in the construction phase, it’s a good idea to add the electric range feed while the walls are open just in the event you ever want to purchase an electric range.

The dishwasher circuit should be a dedicated 125-volt, 15-amp circuit. It is fed with a 14/2 NM wire with a ground. You may elect to feed the dishwasher with a 20-amp circuit using 12/2 NM wire with a ground.

Food disposers do the dirty work, clean up the messes after meals. A dedicated 15-amp circuit is required being fed by 14/2 NM wire with a ground. You may elect to feed the disposer with a 20-amp circuit using 12/2 NM wire with a ground.

The microwave oven needs a dedicated 20-amp, 125-volt circuit to feed it. This will require 12/2 NM wire with a ground.

You will also be using small appliances that sit on your counter tops and they draw additional electrical loads. Atop your countertop, you will need two dedicated 20-amp, 125-volt circuits to run your small appliance loads. You know like toasters, electric griddles, coffee pots, etc… Although there may be more than two outlets on these circuits, two circuits is the minimum. That’s not to say you can’t add more circuits if your needs require them.

Of course, a kitchen wouldn’t be complete without a lighting circuit to brighten the cooking area. A 15-amp, 125-volt dedicated circuit is required to power the ceiling fixtures, can lights, under cabinet lights, and strip lights if you have them. Each set of lights should have their own switch giving you the option of which ones to turn on.

As homeowners, we often overlook light fixtures in our home when it comes to maintenance. We walk in the room and flip on the light switch, assuming it will always light and be there for us. However, that isn’t always the case, as we all know. Sometimes common electrical problems can cause the problem, or it may just be that a bulb burned out. But how are we to know? Here is a list of common problems and some recommended repairs to keep the lights shining brightly in your home.

Let’s take the ceiling light fixture. You walk in and the bulb will not light. First, check the light bulb first. It may have burned out. Replace the bulb. Check to see if the bulb is tight in the socket; check the socket tab in the center of the socket. You may have to pull up on it in order for it to make contact with the bulb; check the connections at the switch and make sure that they are tight. Be sure that the power is off to the circuit that you are working on; the check the connections at the light and the breaker panel to be sure they are all connected tightly.

Another problem homeowners may encounter is flickering lights. If the bulb flickers on and off it usually means that the switch contacts are getting bad. Usually you’ll be able to hear a sizzling or crackling sound if the switch contacts are bad. In this case, replace the switch. It also could be that the connections are loose. This could be on the switch, at the panel, or in the junction box of the light. There also is the possibility that the connections to the light socket could be loose. Check all of these points and tighten if necessary. If the socket connection is loose, replace the light socket.

Recessed lights, or can lights can also pose electrical problems. Check the size of the bulb in the socket. Make sure the wattage of the bulb doesn’t exceed the recommended wattage rating for the fixture. The maximum wattage will be listed on a tag on the fixture or socket.

The limit switch turns the unit off when the temperature reaches an unsafe level. Over- sized bulbs will radiate an excessive amount of heat and could potentially cause a fire if the limit didn’t shut off the light. It is possible that the limit switch may need to be changed if the correct bulb is in place. You also may need to pull the can light out and make a space above the can light. If the insulation is packed to tightly on top of the light, proper ventilation cannot take place. This will trip the thermal.

You may have a fixture with built-in switches or even pull chains. First, check to see if the bulb is not working. If this is the case, change the bulb. If this is not the case and it is the switch that is not working, check the connections on the switch to make sure they are all tight. Remove the switch from the circuit and test between the wires with an ohmmeter. Toggle the switch and see if it changes values on the ohmmeter. If not, replace the switch. Check the wires to the socket. If they are loose or have a burnt appearance, replace the socket

The National Electrical Code says that no splices are allowed outside of junction boxes. However, it seems that older homes were not built with this in mind. They have lots of wires hanging out that are not in a protective box. A wire splice should always be placed in a protective box and covered with a box cover. Before correcting this problem, as with any other electrical fix, turn the power off to the circuit that you’ll be working on. This is the very first thing that you should do when attempting to work with electricity. This may involve turning off a circuit breaker or unscrewing a fuse. Safety should be your first concern. Use a tester to check the connection and see that it really is off before proceeding. Check for power between the hot wire and the neutral wire to see if there is any power present.

Once you know the power is off, take the wire splices apart so that junction box can be added.

To install a junction box, first pull the two wires back so that the box can be added. Remove two of the box’s knockouts to allow the wires access to the box. Install cable connectors in these holes and tighten the locknut with pliers. The wire will slide into the connector and can be tightened with a screwdriver. Now, install two screws through the small holes in the back of the box to secure the box to the wooden joist.

After the box is secure, use linesman pliers to twist the wires together. To do this, join like colors, black to black, white to white, bare copper to bare copper and twist them together evenly. Add a wire nut to cover the connection. In this case, I’m using red wire nuts to make the connections. You may want to use a green-colored wire nut on the ground (bare copper) connection to symbolize the ground connection.

Once the wires are covered, it is time to install a cover plate. The wires must now be formed into the box so that the cover will go on effortlessly and the mounting screws do not screw into the wire insulation. Tuck the wires into place and place the cover over the two mounting screws. Tighten the screws and you’re ready to turn the circuit back on. After restoring power, go to the device that the splice is feeding and make sure that the circuit is indeed on. If so, you have successfully installed a junction box and made your home safer in doing so.

Mercury filled thermostats served their purpose in the past.  However, times have changed and digital programmable thermostats are the way to go now. With electric and gas prices skyrocketing, a digital thermostat will save you money. It will turn the furnace and air conditioner on and off automatically. The best part is they can be set for different temperatures at different times of the day.

Before you begin, read the manufacturer’s instructions that were sent with the thermostat. These pages will guide you by step-by-step instructions on how to install the device before you begin.  You will also have to assemble the tools that you are going to use.  These include screwdrivers, wire Strippers scratch Awl (for making a hole in the drywall for the new plastic anchors), hammer and a level.

Before doing any electrical work, shut off the power. In this case, the circuit feeding the furnace controls the power to the thermostat. Go to the breaker or fuse panel and turn the breaker off or fuse out.

You have to remove the old thermostat first.  Begin by taking the face plate off of the old thermostat and remove the mounting screws. This will expose the thermostat base. Carefully remove the wires from the thermostat base. Mark down on a piece of paper which color wire goes to what terminal. It should be red to “R” for power, white to “C” for common, blue to “Y” for cool, and green to “G” for fan. Be sure to tie the wires together so that they don’t fall into the wall.

Remove the old base by removing the mounting screws. These may be screwed into plastic anchors. These mounts probably won’t work with the new thermostat.

In order to install the new base, you’ll need to install the new mounting hardware. Usually the manufacturer will send some plastic anchors. With a drill bit slightly smaller than the anchor, drill the holes for the new base. It’s a good idea to level the thermostat for looks.

Using the paper that you wrote the wire colors on, connect the wires accordingly to the new thermostat. Remember, each color goes on only one terminal screw.

Now attach the new thermostat to the base and install the cover. Depending on the model, this may be mounted with screws.

The final step is to turn the power back on and test the thermostat. Check to see if the thermostat is functioning properly.  Be sure to tie the thermostat wire back so it doesn’t fall down inside of the wall.  Take note of the wire colors and the marked terminals they are connected to. This is important for reconnecting.

Any time you remodel there are always some golden opportunities for improvement. You probably, at the beginning, are more interested in the surface quality of the renovation. All you can think about is that sparkling new kitchen, that fresh coat of paint, and replacing that worn out carpet. But beneath each visual enhancement there is a chance for efficiency advancement. As you complete a project it’s never a bad idea to consider energy conservation since it not only helps the environment, but also saves you money. And, no matter the project, it’s typically the small things that work best, tiny upgrades that won’t distract from the remodel but can detract from your electric bill.

Kitchens are the most popular room to renovate since it’s important to keep them up to date. And though surface features such as cabinets, counters, and floors are often the focus, as you remodel it may be time to think about replacing your appliances. ENERGY STAR products can instantly cut your electric energy bill by 40 percent since they use less power and water. They also come in many trendy styles and sizes to match your needs. Additionally, if you replace your gas or electric stove with an induction range that uses a small amount of concentrated heat, you’ll use less energy while you cook.

As you replace sinks, showerheads, and faucets, consider low-flow products. The pressure is just as strong as conventional items while still cutting down on water usage. Instead of draining three gallons per a flush, or pouring about four gallons per a minute from a faucet, low-flow fixtures utilize half the amount: enough to be comfortable without the waste. And since the mechanisms inside the fixtures do all the work, the exterior is still able to shine through since they’re available in any style, trend, or finish.

For the rest of the house (family rooms, offices, bedrooms), your focus on renovations most likely will abate. Unless you’re breaking through walls or adding additions, the remainder of the home will probably focus more on interior design issues: paint, furniture, and especially lighting. But as you improve lighting in a particular area, think about how to best utilize the source. Instead of using one overhead bulb, task lighting may be a more efficient enhancement. Remember, it looks chic and modern, but it also concentrates the glow. Plus, compact fluorescent light bulbs (CFLs) last a lot longer and use less energy than traditional incandescent products.

When you remodel the exterior, you’re probably thinking about landscaping. But even when picking out plants, take a tip from the “xeroscaping” handbook. The “xeroscaping” philosophy recommends you plant vegetation that matches your environment. So make sure you select flowers and shrubs that can easily survive in your neck of the woods and won’t require constant watering or tending. Speaking of water, traditional sprinklers are often unable to control their water distribution, and tend to evaporate the moisture before it has a chance to hit the ground. Instead, buy a drip irrigation system that can concentrate smaller amounts of water onto your plant life. Or maybe invest in an underground sprinkler system that can run on a controlled timer. Plus, as you set up your exterior lighting, consider investing in some solar lights: they’re not as bright as electric bulbs, but they last all night and cost nothing to use or install.

Since most people want their houses to appear airy, windows are the best way to accomplish an open feel. Day lighting, or adding more windows in specific locations, is a great way to capture natural sun, thereby saving on electric and heating bills. However, as you install or replace your glass, make sure your windows are double-paned and glazed. Energy efficient low-e (low emissive) and spectrally-selective coatings block out UV rays while still allowing light and heat to pass through. Also, remember the trimmings: storm windows, solar shades, and window treatments can help to protect your home from solar heat gain.

The best way to conserve energy is to add insulation to your house. If you’re converting an attic or basement, lay down an extra layer of fiberglass or cellulose: It’ll increase your R-value without breaking your budget. Caulk windows and doors as you change them or even if you do not. Caulk and seal the old ones. But if you’re replacing an old HVAC system with a new model, you may want to think about a few more energy-efficient options, such as an ENERGY STAR boiler or furnace which use an electric igniter instead of a gas-powered pilot light. Or, invest in a programmable thermostat to help you control and stabilize the indoor temperature better.

Always, if in doubt as to how to do something in the best and most safest way, hire a professional electrician and/or other kind of contractor.

Whenever you are doing any wiring, even as much as replacing an outlet, make certain that all materials are approved by Underwriter’s Laboratories, Inc., an independent, nonprofit testing firm. The letters “UL” stamped within a circle are indicative of the article being approved by this independent underwriting laboratory.

When you undertake an electrical project in your home, be sure to do your work according to code. That might really sound simple, but a problem arises with overlapping codes. These include the National Electric Code (NEC), county codes, and local (city) codes.

Any manufacturer can send a product to Underwriter’s, which then runs a series a tests to make sure that the item is safe. If so, it then gets ’listed’ by the UL. A UL listing means that a product is known to be safe only for its intended purpose and use. A UL-listed lamp cord, for example, is safe on lamps. The lamp cord may not be used as permanent wiring in a house. Inspectors from the firm periodically visit the manufacturer’s plant to see that the product continues to meet UL standards. They may also buy the product at a later date and retest it to see that the safety standards have not slipped and are still up to, what is considered, ordinary and customary.

Electric equipment without UL listing may be somewhat cheaper, but you may also assume that it is of lower quality. With electrical equipment, this is something definitely to avoid. The slight additional cost of buying UL-listed merchandise is minuscule compared to what it will cost you later to replace cheap equipment when it breaks down and it most likely will.

So, besides the Underwriter’s Laboratories, Inc. (UL) approval of any and all items that you use to do your project, you must be certain that you use these items according to the proper codes that have been set forth through your county, city, state, area and the like.

Having these two necessary parts in mind, you must also be aware of the local and county codes for your immediate area in which the work will be done. This may not be the same codes that you employ in the area you live. So be sure to check out all codes that come into play with your project. As an example, the NEC approves of aluminum wiring, but some local codes now forbid it. To find out how codes apply to what you are doing in the area in which you are doing it, visit your local or county building inspector’s office.

 Since both the local and county codes are based on the NEC, you should know it. There is a guide that you can buy that comes in paperback that many professional electricians consider to be their ’bible’. It is called, “Wiring Simplified” by H.P. Richter. It is updated annually and includes practical interpretations of the Code, plus a great deal of information on wiring. You can find it in most large bookstores.

In the end, you must abide by the code that has authority and control over your residence or the place where you are performing the project. If you live or your project is being produced in the city, you must follow local codes. If you are in an unincorporated area, follow the county codes. Basically, you need a permit from your local building inspector’s office whenever you are to add on to your existing wiring. One is not needed if you were to only replace switches or receptacles but you do want one if you are to extend a circuit, which involves adding more wire to the existing wire when you replace your switch or receptacle.