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Everyone use electricity to power our homes, business, televisions , lights, etc. With AC or “Alternating Current” , the current alternates in direction on a regular basis.  This has shown to be a better way for providing electricity than “Direct Current” Electricity or DC Electricity.  This is because the voltages can be changed if needed. Using AC electricity in homes also allows for other devices to be used

While direct current (DC) electricity flows in one direction through a wire, AC electricity alternates its direction in a back-and-forth motion. The direction alternates between 50 and 60 times per second, depending on the electrical system of the country.  This change happens in a cycle.  Each cycle is also called a Hertz (Hz).

AC electricity is created by an AC electric generator, which determines the frequency. What is special about AC electricity is that the voltage can be readily changed, thus making it more suitable for long-distance transmission than DC electricity. But also, AC can employ capacitors and inductors in electronic circuitry, allowing for a wide range of applications.

We say AC electricity instead of simply saying AC, since that is also the abbreviation for air conditioning. You need to be specific to avoid confusioning issues and to avoid any misunderstandings while discussing a topic like this.

With an AC generator, a slightly different configuration alternates the push and pull of each generator terminal. Thus the electricity in the wire moves in one direction for a short while and then reverses its direction when the generator armature is in a different position.

The charge at the ends of the wire alternates between negative (−) and positive (+). If the charge is negative (−), that pushes the negatively charged electrons away from that terminal. If the charge is positive (+), the electrons are attracted in that direction.

AC electricity alternates back-and-forth in direction 50 or 60 times per second, according to the electrical system in the country. This is called the frequency and is designated as either 50 Hertz (50Hz) or 60 Hertz (60Hz).

The regular back-and-forth motion of the electrons in a wire when powered by AC electricity is periodic motion, similar to that of a pendulum. Because of this periodic motion of the electrons, the voltage and current follow a sine waveform, alternating between positive (+) and negative (−), as measured with a voltmeter or multimeter.

There are distinct advantages of AC over DC electricity. The ability to readily transform voltages is the main reason we use AC instead of DC in our homes.  The major advantage that AC electricity has over DC electricity is that AC voltages can be readily transformed to higher or lower voltage levels, while it is difficult to do that with DC voltages.  Since high voltages are more effecient for sending electricity great distances, AC electricity has an advantage over DC. This is because the high voltages from the power station can be easily reduced to a safer voltage for use in the house. Changing voltages is done by the use of a transformer. This device uses properties of AC electromagnets to change the voltages.

AC electricity also allows for the use of a capacitor and inductor within an electrical or electronic circuit. These devices can affect the way the alternating current passes through a circuit. They are only effective with AC electricity. A combination of a capacitor, inductor and resistor is used as a tuner in radios and televisions.

As homeowners, we often overlook light fixtures in our home when it comes to maintenance. We walk in the room and flip on the light switch, assuming it will always light and be there for us. However, that isn’t always the case, as we all know. Sometimes common electrical problems can cause the problem, or it may just be that a bulb burned out. But how are we to know? Here is a list of common problems and some recommended repairs to keep the lights shining brightly in your home.

Let’s take the ceiling light fixture. You walk in and the bulb will not light. First, check the light bulb first. It may have burned out. Replace the bulb. Check to see if the bulb is tight in the socket; check the socket tab in the center of the socket. You may have to pull up on it in order for it to make contact with the bulb; check the connections at the switch and make sure that they are tight. Be sure that the power is off to the circuit that you are working on; the check the connections at the light and the breaker panel to be sure they are all connected tightly.

Another problem homeowners may encounter is flickering lights. If the bulb flickers on and off it usually means that the switch contacts are getting bad. Usually you’ll be able to hear a sizzling or crackling sound if the switch contacts are bad. In this case, replace the switch. It also could be that the connections are loose. This could be on the switch, at the panel, or in the junction box of the light. There also is the possibility that the connections to the light socket could be loose. Check all of these points and tighten if necessary. If the socket connection is loose, replace the light socket.

Recessed lights, or can lights can also pose electrical problems. Check the size of the bulb in the socket. Make sure the wattage of the bulb doesn’t exceed the recommended wattage rating for the fixture. The maximum wattage will be listed on a tag on the fixture or socket.

The limit switch turns the unit off when the temperature reaches an unsafe level. Over- sized bulbs will radiate an excessive amount of heat and could potentially cause a fire if the limit didn’t shut off the light. It is possible that the limit switch may need to be changed if the correct bulb is in place. You also may need to pull the can light out and make a space above the can light. If the insulation is packed to tightly on top of the light, proper ventilation cannot take place. This will trip the thermal.

You may have a fixture with built-in switches or even pull chains. First, check to see if the bulb is not working. If this is the case, change the bulb. If this is not the case and it is the switch that is not working, check the connections on the switch to make sure they are all tight. Remove the switch from the circuit and test between the wires with an ohmmeter. Toggle the switch and see if it changes values on the ohmmeter. If not, replace the switch. Check the wires to the socket. If they are loose or have a burnt appearance, replace the socket

Any time you remodel there are always some golden opportunities for improvement. You probably, at the beginning, are more interested in the surface quality of the renovation. All you can think about is that sparkling new kitchen, that fresh coat of paint, and replacing that worn out carpet. But beneath each visual enhancement there is a chance for efficiency advancement. As you complete a project it’s never a bad idea to consider energy conservation since it not only helps the environment, but also saves you money. And, no matter the project, it’s typically the small things that work best, tiny upgrades that won’t distract from the remodel but can detract from your electric bill.

Kitchens are the most popular room to renovate since it’s important to keep them up to date. And though surface features such as cabinets, counters, and floors are often the focus, as you remodel it may be time to think about replacing your appliances. ENERGY STAR products can instantly cut your electric energy bill by 40 percent since they use less power and water. They also come in many trendy styles and sizes to match your needs. Additionally, if you replace your gas or electric stove with an induction range that uses a small amount of concentrated heat, you’ll use less energy while you cook.

As you replace sinks, showerheads, and faucets, consider low-flow products. The pressure is just as strong as conventional items while still cutting down on water usage. Instead of draining three gallons per a flush, or pouring about four gallons per a minute from a faucet, low-flow fixtures utilize half the amount: enough to be comfortable without the waste. And since the mechanisms inside the fixtures do all the work, the exterior is still able to shine through since they’re available in any style, trend, or finish.

For the rest of the house (family rooms, offices, bedrooms), your focus on renovations most likely will abate. Unless you’re breaking through walls or adding additions, the remainder of the home will probably focus more on interior design issues: paint, furniture, and especially lighting. But as you improve lighting in a particular area, think about how to best utilize the source. Instead of using one overhead bulb, task lighting may be a more efficient enhancement. Remember, it looks chic and modern, but it also concentrates the glow. Plus, compact fluorescent light bulbs (CFLs) last a lot longer and use less energy than traditional incandescent products.

When you remodel the exterior, you’re probably thinking about landscaping. But even when picking out plants, take a tip from the “xeroscaping” handbook. The “xeroscaping” philosophy recommends you plant vegetation that matches your environment. So make sure you select flowers and shrubs that can easily survive in your neck of the woods and won’t require constant watering or tending. Speaking of water, traditional sprinklers are often unable to control their water distribution, and tend to evaporate the moisture before it has a chance to hit the ground. Instead, buy a drip irrigation system that can concentrate smaller amounts of water onto your plant life. Or maybe invest in an underground sprinkler system that can run on a controlled timer. Plus, as you set up your exterior lighting, consider investing in some solar lights: they’re not as bright as electric bulbs, but they last all night and cost nothing to use or install.

Since most people want their houses to appear airy, windows are the best way to accomplish an open feel. Day lighting, or adding more windows in specific locations, is a great way to capture natural sun, thereby saving on electric and heating bills. However, as you install or replace your glass, make sure your windows are double-paned and glazed. Energy efficient low-e (low emissive) and spectrally-selective coatings block out UV rays while still allowing light and heat to pass through. Also, remember the trimmings: storm windows, solar shades, and window treatments can help to protect your home from solar heat gain.

The best way to conserve energy is to add insulation to your house. If you’re converting an attic or basement, lay down an extra layer of fiberglass or cellulose: It’ll increase your R-value without breaking your budget. Caulk windows and doors as you change them or even if you do not. Caulk and seal the old ones. But if you’re replacing an old HVAC system with a new model, you may want to think about a few more energy-efficient options, such as an ENERGY STAR boiler or furnace which use an electric igniter instead of a gas-powered pilot light. Or, invest in a programmable thermostat to help you control and stabilize the indoor temperature better.

Always, if in doubt as to how to do something in the best and most safest way, hire a professional electrician and/or other kind of contractor.

If you’re thinking of buying an electric shower, the first thing to consider are your expectations. Electric showers shouldn’t be confused with power showers. Many people associate a forceful invigorating water jet with power, and are then disappointed by the reality of the average electric shower. In the past, electric showers have been the ugly ducklings of the shower world compared to sleek shiny mixer showers. Recently some manufacturers have moved away from white or silver wall-mounted plastic boxes, and developed glass or slate-effect boxes with chrome controls.

An electric shower is essentially a water heater. It relies on heating mains-pressure cold water very fast as it flows towards the shower head. There is no pump involved, so the amount of water you get through will depend on your mains water pressure. Electric showers are economical as you heat only the water you need, and they’re the only type of shower that’s independent of the hot water system, so if your boiler fails you can still have a hot shower.

The other type of electric shower is a pumped ’power shower’. These connect to both your hot and cold water supplies and are essentially mixer showers, but use an electrical pump to increase the pressure coming out of the shower head, and therefore use much less electricity than an electrically heated shower. An electric shower requires plumbing only to a mains cold water supply, and connection to the electrical supply. The high power electrical element will require connection to a separate electrical supply circuit, which requires an electrician’s services..

Article Source: http://www.articledashboard.com/Article/Difference-between-Electric-Shower-and-power-shower/980426

Whenever you are doing any wiring, even as much as replacing an outlet, make certain that all materials are approved by Underwriter’s Laboratories, Inc., an independent, nonprofit testing firm. The letters “UL” stamped within a circle are indicative of the article being approved by this independent underwriting laboratory.

When you undertake an electrical project in your home, be sure to do your work according to code. That might really sound simple, but a problem arises with overlapping codes. These include the National Electric Code (NEC), county codes, and local (city) codes.

Any manufacturer can send a product to Underwriter’s, which then runs a series a tests to make sure that the item is safe. If so, it then gets ’listed’ by the UL. A UL listing means that a product is known to be safe only for its intended purpose and use. A UL-listed lamp cord, for example, is safe on lamps. The lamp cord may not be used as permanent wiring in a house. Inspectors from the firm periodically visit the manufacturer’s plant to see that the product continues to meet UL standards. They may also buy the product at a later date and retest it to see that the safety standards have not slipped and are still up to, what is considered, ordinary and customary.

Electric equipment without UL listing may be somewhat cheaper, but you may also assume that it is of lower quality. With electrical equipment, this is something definitely to avoid. The slight additional cost of buying UL-listed merchandise is minuscule compared to what it will cost you later to replace cheap equipment when it breaks down and it most likely will.

So, besides the Underwriter’s Laboratories, Inc. (UL) approval of any and all items that you use to do your project, you must be certain that you use these items according to the proper codes that have been set forth through your county, city, state, area and the like.

Having these two necessary parts in mind, you must also be aware of the local and county codes for your immediate area in which the work will be done. This may not be the same codes that you employ in the area you live. So be sure to check out all codes that come into play with your project. As an example, the NEC approves of aluminum wiring, but some local codes now forbid it. To find out how codes apply to what you are doing in the area in which you are doing it, visit your local or county building inspector’s office.

 Since both the local and county codes are based on the NEC, you should know it. There is a guide that you can buy that comes in paperback that many professional electricians consider to be their ’bible’. It is called, “Wiring Simplified” by H.P. Richter. It is updated annually and includes practical interpretations of the Code, plus a great deal of information on wiring. You can find it in most large bookstores.

In the end, you must abide by the code that has authority and control over your residence or the place where you are performing the project. If you live or your project is being produced in the city, you must follow local codes. If you are in an unincorporated area, follow the county codes. Basically, you need a permit from your local building inspector’s office whenever you are to add on to your existing wiring. One is not needed if you were to only replace switches or receptacles but you do want one if you are to extend a circuit, which involves adding more wire to the existing wire when you replace your switch or receptacle.